Oakhurst Grill

350 Mead Road, Decatur 404-270-9575

by BOB TOWNSEND / accessAtlanta

Published on: 03/31/2005

AS DOROTHY so famously said in "The Wizard of Oz": "My! People come and go so quickly here." And the same could be said for Atlanta restaurants.

Take, for instance, the Village Eatery. Late last year, owners Joshua Langley and John Gascyone opened the restaurant in the former Melton's App & Tap space in Decatur's lively Oakhurst Village. But all of the sudden, this month, it has a new name, Oakhurst Grill, and a new chef, Michael Condon.

BADDA BACK: Condon was the owner of Badda Bing Take-Out Gourmet before it was destroyed in a fire last June, along with four other Oakhurst businesses. Langley says plans are under way to revive Badda Bing in the space adjacent to Oakhurst Grill. In the meantime, Condon has revamped the former Village Eatery menu to reflect his diverse tastes, including everything from burgers, sandwiches, pizza and pasta, to a sizable array of appetizers, entrees and weekend brunch dishes, including hot cakes and eggs Benedict.

UNDERSTATED SPACE: Located a couple of doors from Sweet Devil Moon, Oakhurst Grill is in a rather nondescript storefront with an uncovered front deck jutting out from one side. Planters of camellias and forsythia were in full bloom the evening we stopped in, forming a beautifying buffer between the indoor and outdoor spaces. A confusing series of doors all lead into the bar area and dining room, where the look is pleasantly understated — with high ceilings, earth-toned tiles, wood accents and Muslin curtains fluttering under the downdraft of the HVAC system.

MISCELLANEOUS MENU: Condon's eclectic new menu had only been in place for a few days when we sampled a few of the items. And it seemed the kitchen and the servers were still trying to get in synch. We were swayed to try the New York Reuben because it was touted as being prepared with house-made brisket. As it turned out, the cured beef, which came in thick slices, was fatty and tough, which spoiled an otherwise appetizing assemblage of sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese and Russian dressing on toasted rye bread. Sandwiches here come with freshly cut fries, which we liked, and coarsely chopped slaw, which we found startlingly warm. Though the breading could have been crispier, the flavors and textures of the green tomato Napoleon are a winning combination, with fried tomato slices layered with tangy goat cheese on a slathering of spicy-sweet red pepper jam. We also liked the roast pork loin, even if it actually turned out to be a pair of thick, boneless, grilled pork chops atop a mound of rich, maple-flavored sweet potato mash and peppery braised greens.

NEXT TIME: A remnant of its Melton's days, the full bar features a dozen taps, and the beer selection is surprisingly solid, with Belgian delights such as St. Bernardus Abt 12 and La Chouffe offered at quite reasonable prices and served in the proper glassware. Once the kitchen settles down a bit, I'd be inclined to come back for a beer or two and one of the other sandwiches, such as the horseradish-crusted tilapia or the blackened salmon club. And, of course, a new spot for Sunday brunch is always a welcome addition to any Atlanta neighborhood.

HOURS: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Brunch: 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays; bar open late

PRICES: Appetizers and salads $4-$9; burgers and sandwiches $8-$10; pizza and pasta $9-$14; entrees $13-$19; weekend brunch $7-$13

CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards except Diners Club

RESERVATIONS: For large parties

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Roast pork loin, green tomato napoleon

CHILDREN: Welcome

PARKING: On site

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking

NOISE LEVEL: Moderate

TAKEOUT: Yes

THE VERDICT: Needs some fine-tuning, but it should make a welcome addition to this Decatur neighborhood.