by Melissa Morgan/AJC

December 2, 2004

Desserts, Wine and Service Define New Specialty Restaurant in South Decatur

Sitting in a cozy restaurant in San Vincenzo, Italy, this spring Jill Alikonis had the first inkling of the wine bar she and her business partner would open in Oakhurst six months later.

“It was a wonderful experience,” said Alikonis. “A simple, elegant atmosphere with an extremely welcoming staff. They tossed comfortable pillows on the wood benches, just as you would at home. We want to treat people the same way, like guests in our own home.”
Alikonis and business partner Ninetta Violante will open Palate, a wine and dessert bar, on Dec. 2 in downtown Oakhurst. The space is adjacent to The Seen, an art gallery co-owned by Alikonis and fellow photographer William Bibb.

Alikonis and Violante began entertaining the idea of opening a wine and dessert bar after hosting a number of well-attended monthly art gallery events where guests noshed on appetizers and wine.

“There’s no other place in Decatur that specializes in dessert right now,” said Alikonis. “We think that will be a draw. We’d like to be a happy hour and post-dinner destination.” With eight private parties already booked, she anticipates drawing patrons from Midtown, the Virginia Highlands, East Lake, and Kirkwood in the coming months. And next weekend’s Decatur Tour of Homes will likely draw 1,000 to 2,000 customers, she said.

Palate will offer beer, wine, small plates (or appetizers), and desserts. Initial offerings, overseen by chef and menu planner Ninetta Violante, will include blue-cheese stuffed dates and macaroni and cheese with truffle oil. Taking advantage of the play on words, Violante also plans to offer a cheesecake platter with multiple toppings served on an artist’s palette—dollops of chocolate, blueberry sauce, and raspberry topping surrounding the cheesecake.

“All of my family members are first-generation Italian immigrants and own restaurants,” said Violante, currently a firefighter at the Oakhurst fire station directly across the street from Palate. “It’s all I’ve ever known. As soon as I told Dad I was going to do this he said, ‘You’ll do great.’”

Customer service is a family trait, according to Violante. “Whenever I want to comfort someone I make them food. I grew up being told ‘manga, manga, manga!’ and my mother not taking no for an answer.”

In addition to donating serving pieces, racks, and kitchenware, Violante’s family is also providing some family recipes. “My dad’s alfredo sauce is from the original Alfredo,” said Violante. “And my mom makes the best tiramasu I’ve ever had, here or in Italy.”

Palate will accommodate up to 50 guests and will feature a tiered wine system. Each tier, grouped according to price, will feature 10 wines. Patrons may purchase a bottomless glass to try all the wines in their chosen tier. Violante will also suggest wine pairings with food. “We want to encourage experimentation,” said Alikonis. “Part of it is education, just like at the art gallery.”

A Tight-Knit Community

Built in 1918, the historic building that houses The Seen and Palate originally contained a Scottish Rite hospital for crippled children. The central room that once held rows of hospital beds now features a 20-foot-long old train depot counter turned bar.

“We’ve had a lot of neighbors dropping by to help us with the renovation,” said Alikonis, “including a woodworker who helped us refinish the oak bar and the pine floors.”

Though Oakhurst is made up of only 1,600 residents, it’s a tight-knit community, according to Alikonis. “We have a wonderful built-in market,” she said. “Everyone spends money here so we can keep the community feel.” The downtown strip in Oakhurst includes five restaurants, one other art gallery, and a host of other providers –an eye doctor, dry cleaners, coffee shops and acupuncturists. “I use everyone in this area, so I can vouch for it. The service side is nice because everything is right here.”

Her art gallery, The Seen, displays many local artists as well, including photographers, painters, glass and bronze workers, woodworkers, and jewelers.
“It’s a diverse collection, something for everybody,” said Alikonis. “We want to continue that same philosophy in Palate.”

Palate will display some of The Seen’s pieces and use some of its clay pieces as serving dishes. There’s an innate connection between art food, says Violante. “You use all your senses for art and food. Food can be a form of art that feeds your soul.”

Whatever the distinction, you do what you love, said Alikonis. “You bring art, chocolate, and wine together, and that pretty much does it for me.”

Palate will open on December 2, and will be open Thursdays through Sundays from 6 to 11 p.m. Thursday nights will feature jazz musician Nicole Chillemi.